Mamma Santina’s

This is some of the best pizza you will ever taste on Long Island. It’s too bad I just found out about it 2 or 3 months before moving back to NYC. In that short time I have been back at least 4 times. I’ve tried the white pizza, the margherita pizza, and the prosciutto & arugula pizza – all brick oven styles. I haven’t tried a regular PIE yet, but the regular SLICE was excellent (reheated from under the glass – the best way to eat a slice, in my opinion). Good cheese to sauce ratio, good crispy crust with a little bit of softness when you bite down. Really well done stuff here, with simple and high quality ingredients like fresh mozz, basil, and bright flavorful sauce. CLICK HERE to visit their fucking website.

Some pizzaporn food porn below:

10259314_777073602304207_6598620921771717922_o

20140609_201530_LLS

20140609_201541_LLS

MAMMA SANTINA’S
201 Orinoco Dr
Brightwaters, NY 11718

Da Marcella Mediterranean Taverna

UPDATE: THIS PLACE IS NOW CLOSED!

I was recently invited to a press dinner at Da Marcella Mediterranean Taverna in midtown. This place has an Italian- and Spanish-inspired menu that showcases high quality ingredients and expert preparation. Owner Manuel Moreno has two Da Marcella restaurants. The original taverna is in Greenwich Village, is small, and has a very comforting, mom & pop neighborhood feel with very affordable prices ($10 pastas). It’s been open for two years. The goal since the midtown opening in November is to recreate that atmosphere, despite the challenges of the area being less of a neighborhood.

20140612_182354_LLS

Manuel also endeavored to bring his Spanish heritage to light as well in the midtown location, as he is half Italian (mom’s side) and half Spanish (dad’s side).

da marcella 001

da marcella 005

da marcella 007

20140612_190259_LLS

The downtown menu is fully Italian, but the midtown menu shows off some tapas, paella and other Spanish staples. All recipes were handed down from his grandmother to his mother (the restaurants’ namesake), so you know you are getting something authentic when you eat at his restaurants.

Our host for the evening was Ernesto, who is manager but also the wine expert. The downtown wine menu is Italian, but the midtown wine list is thoroughly Mediterranean, with choices from Spain and Greece a well as Italy. There are 18 wines by the glass, nine of which change frequently.

da marcella 012

As you can see from the tasting menu, he picked some really great wines to pair with each dish, all of which seemed to get increasingly better as the meal went on.

Scan_Pic0001

da marcella 015

So we started with the marinated octopus with caperberries, and Scottish salmon tartare with avocado. Both were absolutely amazing. The octopus was hands down the most tender I have ever eaten. The only thing that would have made it better is if it were grilled to give it a little char. The tartare was perfectly balanced between acidic, savory and even sweet. The wine paired here was a nice dry but floral white from Riax Baixas in the north part of Spain. I enjoyed it, and I typically don’t really like whites all that much.

da marcella 016

da marcella 018

Next were the veal and pork mini-meatballs and a plate of burrata with prosciutto and truffle sauce. The truffle sauce was just the right amount of earthiness to bring out the other flavors and make them all pop. And the meatballs, well, they were soft and flavorful. It’s always tough to impress me with meatballs because I am spoiled by having good Italian mom and grandma meatballs, but these were excellent. The wine here was a really nice light Chainti. Well paired.

da marcella 022

da marcella 025

The tagliatelle pasta was perfect. Fresh made, al dente, properly sauced, and really delicious. The bolognese sauce is highly complex without being heavy, which in itself is a feat. It contains 18 ingredients, a few of which are meats. They really make grandma proud here, as this is clearly a signature item at the restaurant. With the pasta we had a Cabernet-Montepulciano wine, which was my favorite of the night. Robust and flavorful, but not heavy or too acidic.

da marcella 027

da marcella 028

da marcella 011

Next we had the seafood and chicken paella, which contained chicken (of course), clams, mussels, calamari, string beans and peas. I haven’t had many paellas in my day, as I tend to like Asian rice dishes better for the crisp texture, but this was pretty damned good. I was amazed at how they got each separate ingredient to be perfectly cooked. For example, I imagine they have to throw in the calamari at a different time than the clams, and at a different time than the chicken, string beans, etc. Each component was just right, so that must be a real challenge. The wine for this and the beef course (next) was a rich Temperanillo. Full bodied, well aged; a no bullshit kind of wine. Probably quite costly too had we been paying customers.

da marcella 030

da marcella 032

Our last savory course was the wine-braised beef short rib with creamy polenta. This was awesome. The meat was a bit salty, but when you took a bite with the polenta (which was amazing on its own too) it really balanced it out nicely. I was a happy meat man when eating this. So tender, soft and flavorful.

da marcella 035

For dessert we had a sampling of three items: pannacotta, tiramisu, and ricotta cheese cake. Owner Manuel is a baker by trade, so all desserts are made in house if not brought in from his personal Long Island City bakery called the Bakery of New York. The pannacotta was my favorite here. It was perfectly textured – creamy yet firm. It had herb notes of sage or tarragon as well. Very inventive. The tiramisu was very nice as well, but the consensus of others at the table was that the cheese cake was the big winner. Not too heavy, really nice flavors.

da marcella 037

To sum it up; I really enjoyed the meal here, and I plan to go back soon, especially since it’s so close to my office. I’d also love to get down to the original location in the village to try out some of their very affordable and highly rated pastas (if I can get a table – the place is now generating big lines from what I understand, because there is a lot of demand).

Blue Hill at Stone Barns

Hmm… what can I say about this place… The food is off the charts good, fresh (obviously), well plated, well executed, clever, fun and inventive. The only negatives I can possibly conceive of are (1); it’s heavy on the vegetables, which isn’t necessarily a bad thing but for (2); it is very expensive. When you pay $200 per person before drinks, tax and tip, you sort of expect some serious substance in addition to the superb veggies. The meats consisted of: pig heart pastrami (1 bite), lamb (one small, thin rib chop), a bite of ham (in the tortilla), a slice of speck (ham and cheese sandwich), and a few slices of pork. That’s pretty much it. One of the asparagus dishes (there were several, yet oddly my pee didn’t smell afterward) had shredded chicken wing as garnish, but that doesn’t count. And neither do the few items that contained fish product. The last negative criticism is (3) extreme pretense. You’ll see what I am talking about below. I get that these people are passionate about the farm to table concept, about sustainability, etc. And they are remarkable culinary artists. But fucking come on… Some of this stuff is like candid camera fodder. To sum up: this was a great once-in-a-lifetime experience. I absolutely 100% know that I will never go back, but I’m definitely glad I fought tooth and nail to get a rez here to celebrate our anniversary, even if just to experience this bizarre place.

Scan_Pic0004

Service? Some of the best I’ve ever experienced. Our waiter Christian was amazing and very informative. Waiters and table hawks swooped in and cleaned up after each of our roughly 24 courses. Use a spoon once, put it down for a minute, look at the ceiling, look back down and POOF: it’s gone, with a replacement on the way. Actually when we first sat down, they saw my wife scratch her wine glass to get a spot off and they immediately replaced the glass with a fresh one. Crazy! Too much? Perhaps. At some points we sort of felt awkward.

Blue Hill 036

The ambiance of this place is really amazing. The farm is a beautiful and picturesque location. Nice grounds, with old but modern touches; rustic yet elegant. I could easily see it being some kind of rustic wedding venue. The dining area and centerpiece table is beautiful, and the kitchen is immaculately clean. The food is plated and presented in some of the most artful and beautiful ways I have ever seen.

Scan_Pic0005

Scan_Pic0002

Blue Hill 001_tonemapped

Blue Hill 008

Blue Hill 011

Blue Hill 113

Blue Hill 065 - 070

To start we ordered some drinks. Mine was essentially a gin martini with pickled ramps instead of onion or olive. Ramps are so farm to table and local – way more hipster than onions or olives. My wife’s was a chamomile, gin, honey, and slightly sparkling lemon drink. Delicious. But lemon?!?? That shit doesn’t grow here in NY, as far as I know. So much for the whole LOCAL thing! I want my olive now…

Blue Hill 022

Then the food started coming out. Hold onto your asses because this was a 4 hour meal…

1) Veggies on sticks. Some pickled, some raw, some lightly seasoned or spiced. Nice and refreshing. But, really? I started to wonder whether I’d fallen victim to some social experiment where you put diners into a fancy environment and serve them cat food and they absolutely love it.

Blue Hill 014

Blue Hill 013

IMG_20140609_094353

2) Asparagus soup. This was really great. Hearty, savory. I could easily drain a bowl of this shit. Pay attention to how much fucking asparagus is served here. It is astounding.

Blue Hill 019

3) Pig heart pastrami. This was good! Tasted just like pastrami, wasn’t too chewy. Just right. But give me more. Look at how much you’re charging me and ask if this is enough!

Blue Hill 018

4) First of the Rhubarb. This was essentially just a pickled slice of rhubarb. Simple. “First of the rhubarb” registers at about 11 on a Pretentiousness Scale that goes from 1 to 10. I think it means the first time they were able to pick the rhubarb this season. You know… because rhubarb is WILDLY different in flavor that second time you pick it. Whatever.

Blue Hill 021

5) Pea shoots, baby leeks, weeds, and tarragon pesto. At this point we were looking around for the hidden cameras that were placed to record our reaction to some weird practical joke. Even this was beyond “social experiment” weirdness. I’m a man with testicles. I have a dick, and it still gets hard. Now, this stuff was good (the sauce, anyway), but almost too odd for us. We were literally wiping the leaves of weeds across the sauce. Fun, I guess? But it took us a bit by surprise. We both laughed at this dish.

Blue Hill 023

6) Egg yolk & potato tartlet, spring onion vichysoisse with toasted quinoa, and a fiddle head fern cracker. These were all lovely. Perfect little bites of flavor. I wish we had a whole tray of them.

Blue Hill 025

Blue Hill 026

Blue Hill 027

Blue Hill 028

7) Asparagus burgers. DING! Your asparagus score is now two. These were cute. Tasty too, and Christian came by with an asparagus stalk that had gone wild and grown too large. They are harvested at just the right time, before they start sprouting branches. BHASB <3 Asparagus 4-EVA!

Blue Hill 029

Blue Hill 042

20140608_144432_LLS

8) Asparagus & pancetta. DING! Your asparagus score is now three! A nice asparagus spear on a stick, coated with sesame seeds. Good bacony flavor involved without any actual bacon on the skewer.

Blue Hill 031

9) Ham and cheese sandwiches. These were made with speck and crisped cheese type crackers. Beautiful presentation, and one of the better bites of the meal. Again: give a man with hair on his chest a bit more that a single bite. I understand it is a multi-course feast, but feature the substantive dishes and downplay the “sides.” YEs – a veggie can be a side. But there were like 400 of them here to the handful of meat items. I get it. Veggies are awesome.

Blue Hill 033

Blue Hill 032

10) Pork liver pate & chocolate. This was a great bite as well. The chocolate surprisingly went well the liver.

Blue Hill 035

11) Celtuce in a small soup with pine nuts. Christian gave us a crash course on what celtuce is. Basically similar to romaine but with a heart or root that you can cook up like the stem of broccoli. Delicious in every preparation they served.

Blue Hill 037

Blue Hill 038

12) Greenhouse greens and smoked creamy gouda cheese. A nice salad. Whoa, whoa, WHOA… GREENHOUSE greens?!?? Do you mean to tell me that these items would not otherwise grow in the local climate? Like the lemon above… but not the olive? Pfft…

Blue Hill 039

13) Celtuse heart and spears, caviar and herring cream. This was one of the best courses. The caviar provided a natural salt element to this. Excellent use of vegetables… again.

Blue Hill 041

14) Asparagus with almond saffron sauce, stinging nettle sauce, olive tapenade, rhubarb yogurt, grilled asparagus sauce and crispy chicken wings. DING! Your asparagus score is now four! It was served with asparagus tea, and the sauces were plated tableside. The best sauce here was the asparagus sauce. Asparagus. Asparagus, asparagus, asparagus.

Blue Hill 043

Blue Hill 044

Blue Hill 046

20140608_152304_LLS

15) Whole wheat brioche, escarole and spinach marmalade with fresh ricotta cheese that was strained tableside. This was a nice piece of toast. They had some cracked black pepper on the plate too, and that really made all the flavors pop.

Blue Hill 049

Blue Hill 050

Blue Hill 052

Blue Hill 051

16) Ham, robin fish, mint & peas, creme fraiche and fresh cut herbs on a buckwheat tortilla. We were excited for this one because we were taken back to the chefs table in the kitchen to have it. Awesome!

Blue Hill 087

Blue Hill 088

Blue Hill 086

Blue Hill 091

Umm.. can I please have some of this sausage in my meal? If not.. maybe some more asparagus?

Blue Hill 082

Blue Hill 079

Blue Hill 073

Blue Hill 072

Blue Hill 060

17) Stone barns egg, and everything a chicken eats. This was a really fucking great egg dish. I tasted currants, herbs and seeds, and it was presented while cooking in a cast iron pan. Perfect.

Blue Hill 092

18) Potato onion bread, grass fed butter, lard from their pigs, and carrot salt. Here we’re being prepped for meat courses, so I was getting psyched. FINALLY…

Blue Hill 093

19) Stone barns Berkshire pork with “this mornings peas,” pistachios and chrysanthemum. I had no idea one could eat chrysanthemum. The leaves were very fresh and airy; a perfumed and clean flavor. It went very well with the smokey pig flavor. And this morning’s peas? I’ll never have yesterday’s peas ever again. I wonder though… are tomorrow’s peas any good? Good fucking lord with the pretense.

Blue Hill 094

20) Grass fed lamb, shitake, and bok choy. This was a nice plate. I just wish the lamb was thicker. Perfectly cooked. It was like having a bite of prime rib on a stick.

Blue Hill 095

Blue Hill 096

21) Cheeses … sheep’s milk and cheddar, served with rye pretzels, chutney and cumin spiced pumpkin seeds. The cheese was explained, cut, plated and served tableside, by the amazing Christian, asparagus stalk warrior.

Blue Hill 097

Blue Hill 098

Blue Hill 099

22) Next was a special anniversary cake plate. Pea and carrot cake. Very clever and tasty too! Get it? Have your peas and carrots… but for dessert.

Blue Hill 101

Blue Hill 100

23) Milk ice cream, strawberry sorbet, and clotted cream with dried strawberries, fresh green and red strawberries and hazelnuts. The plating was pretty cool here. These little hexagonal glass plates were all stack-able.

Blue Hill 106

Blue Hill 104

Blue Hill 105

Blue Hill 103

24) Bugs, Dirt, and Twigs. This one is for the kids! Very fun.

Blue Hill 110

Blue Hill 107

Blue Hill 108

Caterpillar = marshmallow

Honey Bee = honey mousse on a graham cracker

Brown dirt clump = chocolate truffle

Green dirt clump = pistachio nut cake ball with a cream type filling

Bird’s egg = herbed cream in a candy shell

Sticks/Twigs = light airy cookie crisps

Even the espresso was nicely plated and presented.

Blue Hill 112

Blue Hill 111

After we paid the bill, we walked out the back to see our car waiting for us at the end of the walkway.

20140608_174926_LLS

Blue Hill 114_tonemapped

I only felt half-raped. Like some HUGE Blood or Crip bent me over the weight lighting bench in the prison yard but got interrupted after his dick tip penetrated my anal sphincter, thus depriving him of full penetration and allowing me to walk away with my dignity still somewhat intact. Overall a really good meal, though. I’ll never go back unless someone else is paying for it. Glad we went. Nice to see veggies in the forefront. Good attitude about food. Incredible use of asparagus. Maybe it was all one big episode of Chopped and that was the secret ingredient for every course?

Final asparagus score: four, not including multiple uses in the same course. Accordingly, I hereby call this restaurant by a new name: Blue Asparagus at Stone Barns.

BLUE HILL AT STONE BARNS
630 Bedford Rd.
Tarrytown, NY 10591

Capizzi Pizzeria Italiana

I recently became aware of Capizzi when I was invited for a couple of press dinners. It is situated right between my wife and my work places, so it was an easy spot to try out on a whim.

This cozy little joint is tucked away under the bridge on 9th Avenue at Port Authority.

20140326_190430_LLS_20140326193922615

When you walk in, you feel like you’re at someone’s house that has been temporarily transformed into a dining room. The old tube TV and the floor-standing, old timey radio have been moved aside to make room for guests. They even have and old school fridge and ice box along the cabinetry on one side of the room…

20140326_175823_20140326194123219

…and dried peppers hanging from the ceiling, just like at grandma’s house.

20140326_181603_LLS

Which they crush into their own house crushed red pepper, served alongside dried oregano that is still on the stems. Just like home!

20140523_180245_LLS

By 6pm on the Friday before Memorial Day, when people are itching to vacate the city, this place was already jumping WITH A LINE OUT THE DOOR AND DOWN THE STREET. Completely full. Wow!

20140326_183304_LLS

The plates mirror this cozy home feeling, and it’s no wonder Capizzi was jammed up from such an early time… because everything was awesome. And it boasts an extensive Wine selection for all you wine drinking folks out there. In my two visits, I got to taste pretty much all their wines by the glass. The montepulciano, nero d’avola, lambrusco, chianti, and muscato were all great.

20140326_181544_LLS

Our waiter Andre started us off with a couple of glasses of sangiovese on our first visit, which is one of my favorite varietals. The cool thing about the second visit was that he was there again, but this time just visiting on his off-day to say hello to friends, which I thought was pretty cool. He remembered us too! Great guy. On the second trip we had the pleasure of being served by Sami as our waitress, and Javier as bus boy. Service here is impeccable! Javier was fast, attentive, and very nice. Sami was a sweetheart, and made excellent suggestions for what to order. The people running Capizzi definitely know how to choose good quality staff.

20140326_180223_LLS

We had a plate of soft, tasty burrata cheese that was garnished with basil, artichoke hearts, sliced grape tomatoes, roasted red peppers, and prosciutto – all lightly drizzled with olive oil. It was excellent. Simple and delicious.

20140326_180012_LLS

20140326_180021_LLS

Next came the antipasto misto: a plate of Italian meats, cheese, olives, mushrooms, sun dried tomatoes, roasted red peppers, and eggplant. A nice way to double down on our starter plate. As you can see in the pic, Andre again served us from the main plate. Top notch service here!

20140326_181928_LLS

20140326_182033_LLS

The antipasto came with a basket of toasted, lightly cheesed flatbread. Naked pizza, if you will. Really airy and crispy. We took this home with us since we couldn’t finish it all, and wanted to save room for pizza.

20140326_183143_LLS

20140326_183002_LLS

20140326_181803_LLS

On trip number two we tried two salads – HUGE portion sizes. Definitely can split these. These were both very simple dishes that showcased incredible, fresh ingredients. In the first case, cucumber, roasted red peppers, and really top quality olive oil.

20140523_174702_LLS

The other salad was a simple, refreshing fennel and orange salad. Again massive portion size, and very tasty.

20140523_174710_LLS

Then comes the pizza. We ordered a regular Margherita pie with some arugula and prosciutto on top. The pie was doughy yet crisped and lightly charred on the surfaces and crust. This kind of perfection can only be achieved with an authentic wood burning brick oven.

20140326_181716_LLS

The sauce was deftly applied with just the right volume and ratio to the crust and cheese. It had a very slight sweetness to it, which was cut nicely by the peppery arugula and salty prosciutto. The cheese was fresh and melty, and on top there was some fresh grated parmesan cheese for that earthy kick. We devoured every bite of this masterpiece.

20140326_183909_LLS

20140326_183935_LLS

On a second visit we tried two pies. First the margherita pie – your basic cheese and sauce pizza. It was fucking PERFECT. Words escape me right now as I try to describe it. It was crisp, yet soft. It was savory, fresh, and juicy from point to crust. Honestly this is now my favorite pizza in New York, and I grew up a spoiled pizza brat.

20140523_180118_LLS

20140523_180130_LLS

20140523_180309_LLS

The other pie we tried was on special for the night, and was topped with speck, prosciutto, arugula and mozzarella. This was really great. In fact, pretty much every pizza on the menu sounds enticing. My wife and I plan to move back into the city this summer, and this area is one of or top choices for location. Needless to say, Capizzi will be our go-to pizza joint, no question. Look at how amazing the pizza is…

20140523_181338_LLS

We finished off the meal with my wife’s favorite classic dessert, tiramisu, on our first visit. It was good – nice and light, not too boozy; a great ending to a wonderful meal.

20140326_185636_LLS

20140326_185700_LLS

On the second visit, we took advice from our waitress Sami to try the Oreo truffle cannoli. She hit the nail on the head. It was just the right amount of sweet without being overpowering. It was flavorfully unique, but with enough tribute paid to the classic cannoli dessert not to offend any traditionalist sensibilities. And as always, the plating was beautiful to boot.

20140523_183818_LLS

As a pizza aficionado, I definitely recommend this place to those looking for a great pie (no single slices here – for that you need to go to Saluggis). Do yourself a favor and go here ASAP. I think for sit-down, full-pie pizza, this is absolutely my new favorite place to go.

An interesting side note about this place:

“They got an old-fashion’ toilet… You know… The box, and, and, and, ah the chain-thing… We might be able to tape the gun behind it.”

– Tessio

chain toilet capizzi

CAPIZZI
547 9th Ave
New York, NY 10018

Paname

I was recently invited to a press dinner at Paname, a French bistro on 2nd Avenue and 56th Street. I’m by no means a master of knowledge on French cuisine, but the food here was pretty great, so it merits a nice write up with pretty pictures.

Chef-owner Bernard Ros is a really well-seasoned restaurateur. He’s been in the game for 45 years in NYC, learning how to cook and run restaurants in Paris with his parents from a very young age. He has run successful restaurants throughout the boro, bouncing around to find the best rents that make sense for his style of restaurant, and the atmosphere he wishes to create: classic, neighborhood, mom & pop, casual yet refined dining, with top quality ingredients.

Paname 003

Paname 002

Bernard’s specialty is seafood, but he hits the high mark on all sorts of fare, including the traditional duck and steak entrees and even desserts (all of which he still makes himself as head chef).

Paname 001_pp2

When I asked him how he still keeps the passion for cooking after so many years, his response was that he keeps pushing himself to make better quality food with better ingredients. That’s the kind of drive that keeps him successful in the most dog-eat-dog city in the world, I suppose. And cheers to him for doing it, because we all get to benefit from his hard work and decades of experience.

Paname 021

Authentic is the word that best sums up the experience here at Paname. Even the Mayor of Paris has said that this place is like dining on a corner of the great city of Paris, that city of mi amours, mercis, oui ouis, bon bons and all that good stuff (French vanilla, butter pecan, chocolate deluxe). That’s a reference to Chef Raekwon (rapper), if you didn’t know.

Okay so now on to the important part of the review – food and pics. You’ll notice right away that the presentation and plating here is excellent. You eat first with your eyes, my friends.

We started with an amuse bouche of puff pastry with gorgonzola cheese and red and green sauce. The cheese was great here. Slightly melty, with just enough funk to open up the taste buds.

Paname 004

The star of the appetizers was the pate with cornichon and mustard, with a light vinaigrette salad. The pate was meaty and substantial, unlike so many other places that essentially give you a soft, spreadable mousse. This was like a little liver steak. Amazing.

Paname 012

Next was the crab cake. Now, don’t get me wrong, this is a pretty decent crab cake, but after dining at some of the worlds best steak houses, Del Frisco’s has pretty much hit the apex when it comes to crab cakes. I would steer you more toward the traditional French culinary items here, because they are done so very well.

Paname 010

We also tried the baby octopus with beans. This was beautifully prepared and it packed a lot of flavor, though I think maybe it would come out nicer with proper braised adult octopus legs instead of the finicky and difficult to cook baby octo, which can become tough at times and cook unevenly.

Paname 007

For entrees we tried the duck with orange sauce: a classic. It was served with a small side of al dente barley and a vegetable medley (string beans, carrots, cauliflower). What you got was half a breast and a leg. Both were executed perfectly, juicy and tender, with the skin being the star of the show. My wife is pretty much a duck connoisseur, so to impress her is no easy feat. This dish won her over big time.

Paname 015

I had the bouillabaisse, which was served up with cod, mussels, shrimp, and Littleneck clams. The sauce was really good, and the toasted bread that came with it had a nice spicy mayo spread for the fat to cut the acid. Beautiful. The seafood was tender and packed a lot of great flavor.

Paname 013

We also tried the sushi grade tuna. Our host ordered it well done, which is way overcooked for our liking, but it still tasted great.

Paname 016

And on the side we had some perfect, crispy, golden-brown french fries. Wonderful.

Paname 019

As a pre-dessert, the staff brought out a small dessert plate with butterfly cookies, half bite muffin type things, and a chocolate biscotti type of baked creation.

For dessert proper, we had creme brulee, which was great and very big…

Paname 031

…Crepes, which were a bit thick and doughy, but I enjoyed them because they were very flavorful with the grand marnier and almonds…

Paname 030

…And a plate of fruit, nuts and cheese. Simple and elegant.

Paname 032

For wines, if you get a similar type of meal, I would go with the Sauvignon blanc to start, then build to the rose, and finish off with the Cotes du Rhone, a very light but still flavorful red.

PANAME
1068 2nd Ave.
New York, NY 10022

Chocolate Donut Tacos

This is simple and fucking delicious. But make this your only calories for the day, since it is a fat guy snack for sure.

20140513_195422_LLS

Step 1
Flatten a glazed donut with a rolling pin. Don’t mash it.

20140513_203409_LLS

20140513_203535_LLS

Step 2
Add a dollop of chocolate pudding on top to be the main filling (or you can use Greek yogurt if you want to be a healthy dick about it).

Step 3
Sprinkle on some Cinnamon Toast Crunch, shredded coconut, and chopped almonds or cashews. Also add a strip of bacon, that is, if you have massive testicles swinging between your legs.

20140513_203817_LLS

Step 4
Drizzle some sweetened condensed milk across your mountain of yum.

Step 5
Fold in half and eat it, taco style.

20140513_203908_LLS

I was happy to see that Hungry Dad Hugh Gallon made these at home one day, and he put together a nice image of his process. Is that Yoohoo in there? NICE ADDITION!!!

kevins chocolate donut tacos

Roman Ramen

Taking inspiration from Maialino, I tried making my own homemade “Roman Ramen.” It turned out pretty fucking awesome, so I figured I would share my technique with you, my loyal meat minions.

Shit you’ll need:

  • Package of Boneless Pork Ribs or Pork Shoulder
  • Package of Hormel “Salt Pork”
  • Slow Cooker
  • Rosemary
  • Turkey Stock
  • Chicken Stock
  • Beef Bullion Cubes
  • Onion
  • Garlic
  • Garlic Oil
  • Garlic Powder
  • Onion Powder
  • Onion Oil
  • Olive Oil
  • Szechuan Pepper Oil
  • Fresh Cilantro
  • Fresh Italian Basil
  • Oregano
  • Salt
  • Cracked Black Pepper
  • Crushed Red Pepper
  • Egg
  • Mushrooms

Prep: Step 0
Sear or quickly brown your pork meat and salt pork in a frying pan with a little bit of olive oil and seasonings. Then put into a slow cooker with dry spices (oregano, red pepper, salt, black pepper, garlic powder, onion powder), and add water so that meat is just covered with water. Set on low for 6 hours.

Step 1
Put your chicken and turkey stock to a pot. Add two or three beef bullion cubes in, as well as a healthy handful of rosemary, twiggy bits and all. Bring to a simmer, then add your dry spices to taste (oregano, red pepper, salt, black pepper, garlic powder, onion powder). Now add your oils in to taste (garlic, olive, pepper, onion) – all of which are optional, but they really do boost the flavors incredibly.

Step 2
Meanwhile, you should rinse and prep your toppings, which will be fresh cilantro, fresh basil, raw thinly sliced onions, and raw thinly sliced mushrooms.

Step 3
Add water to a large pot and turn on high. Add a few eggs in (these will eventually be part of the toppings). Once the water reaches a boil, remove the eggs and add a box of dry spaghetti. After about nine minutes your spaghetti should be done. Strain it and hit it with some olive oil to prevent sticking.

Step 4
Strain your soup base to get all the rosemary bits out. Then ladle some soup into a bowl. Add a portion of spaghetti, and arrange your toppings neatly, as the Japanese do. Don’t forget your eggs! Peel and slice.

Step 5 (optional)
One thing I wish I added here was a few stalks of broccolini. I had a bunch in the fridge but completely overlooked the shit. A few nicely sauteed stalks laying across the top of the soup bowl would have been a perfect way to get some healthy greens into the meal. Plus it would have looked even more beautiful than it did:

20140428_195739_LLS

20140428_202105_LLS

20140428_202124_LLS

20140428_202124_LLS_20140428203133708

20140428_202147_LLS

collage_20140428203822243

Bloody Mary Skirt Steak

This is a pretty simple one, and a close riff on one of my earlier skirt steak recipes. Buy yourself a bunch of skirts, some habanero peppers and some tomato juice (or Bloody Mary mix), and you should be pretty much set with the rest of the shit in your pantry.

Shit you’ll need:

  • Tomato Juice or Bloody Mary mix
  • Garlic Powder
  • Sea Salt
  • Cracked Black Pepper
  • Crushed Red Pepper
  • Fresh Habanero Peppers (optional)
  • Horseradish (optional)

Grab a large, long piece tupperware and pour some tomato juice into the bottom to create a little layer of marinade. Season with crushed red pepper, cracked black pepper, salt, and garlic powder. Drop a few slices of your habanero pepper in too. Then place two of your steaks in, and repeat in layers until you run out of steaks. I like to use a whole pepper per layer, because I like spicy shit. Top off your tupperware with a little more juice and spices so every square milimeter of meat is covered with the marinade. Then throw that shit in the fridge for several hours, or overnight.

collage_20140511073503937

When you’re ready to eat, get your grill screaming hot. I’m talking 500 degrees or more. Drip-dry or paper-towel-dry the meat before you slap it on the grill. You want to get as much of the liquid off as you can, so that you end up with GRILLED meat instead of STEAMED meat. If you need that sauce for some reason, you can boil up the remainder of the marinade in a sauce pot to use as gravy topping, or you can baste lightly as the meat grills. If you have a little more time, you can reduce the marinade into a really awesome, thick BBQ sauce. It comes out delicious when you do it right.

20140511_102656_LLS

You’ll only need about three minutes per side, max, to get a nice medium rare temperature. So three minutes, flip, three minutes, then pull them off and let them rest.

20140511_103625_LLS

20140511_103805_LLS

Now here’s the key part of the process – the slicing… First, cut your skirts WITH the grain into four or five inch chunks. Then, spin each piece 90 degrees and slice AGAINST the grain for plating and serving. This cross-grain cutting is absolutely key to eating this kind of steak. It makes for an easier-to-chew bite of meat; way more tender.

20140511_104551_LLS

20140511_104838_LLS

20140511_104717_LLS

20140511_105205_LLS

The finished product: a plate of delicious meat. Pour some of your boiled marinade over the slices if you want, and throw a little horseradish on top. Enjoy with a refreshing Bloody Mary to double down on the flavors.

20140511_105343_LLS

20140511_105328_LLS

20140511_110636_LLS

A fun part of this – take your leftover meat and broil in the oven on some garlic bread smothered with mozzarella cheese to make an incredible sandwich. Good shit.

Le Colonial

My wife found this cool article that featured Le Colonial’s foie gras pho. It looked amazing, so we had to try it out.

We went for lunch on a Friday. It wasn’t packed or anything like that: we sat right away. Yet it took us an hour to have three appetizers. The wait time between the first appetizer and the second two appetizers was horrendous. Probably a half hour.

We started with the wok fried monk fish, called ca bam. Though very salty, small, and overpriced ($15) it WAS very tasty. The rice chips were the perfect crunchy vessel to eat the peanutty and lightly spiced fish.

20140425_130445_LLS

Fast forward 30 minutes and our soups FINALLY came to the table. We each ordered the signature pho dish. At $19 a pop I was expecting something at least as filling as a bowl of pho from Chinatown. No such luck. There was about 10-12oz of liquid broth, a few thin slices of the meat, a small handful of noodles, and a small piece of fois gras. The bowl, in all, is a bit smaller than what you’d make with instant ramen or instant pho. While I realize that it is an appetizer portion, I feel that for $19 you should get more substance. At least it was delicious. It was hearty, tasty, and it contained quality ingredients. The foie gras was deliciously fatty and perfectly executed.

20140425_133133_LLS

20140425_133230_LLS

The decor was definitely beautiful. I should have thought to snap a pic of that. It was very reminiscent of real French-Vietnamese structures in Vietnam. Hence the name Le Colonial.

20140425_125408_LLS

But paying $68, tax included for three appetizers to come out over the course of over an hour was fucking absurd. I’ll never eat here again, though I’m glad I got to try the soup. In the future I’ll just stick with the Chinatown pho joints. Only in midtown NYC can you pay $68 for lunch and still be hungry. Fuck that. I guess the good thing is that I got to spend some quality time with my wife in the middle of a work day.

LE COLONIAL
149 E. 57th St.
New York, NY 10022

Skal

UPDATE: THIS PLACE IS NOW CLSOED!

Skal is an Icelandic joint on Canal Street WAY on the east side. The end of Canal Street. I never realized how awesome this end of Canal Street was. Skal is actually the only place in NYC where you can try Icelandic food. The name of the restaurant means “cheers.” So SKAL!

The decor is really nice: washed blue with dark brown and white. Very “modern nuptials” in scheme, with a bit of Cape Cod accents.

20140422_183139_LLS

20140422_183152_LLS

20140422_183303_LLS

The owner, Christoff, is awesome. He’s really nice, hands-on, with a great personality. He also sports a wonderful head of hair that makes me really jealous.

20140422_191835_LLS_20140422222211107

My wife and I came here for a Tabelog tasting event that involved seven courses of greatness.

20140422_184544_LLS

20140422_190242_LLS

First were the pickled veggies. This included everything from cauliflower to broccoli to root veggies and greens.

20140422_184826_LLS_20140422222829377

20140422_192410_LLS

Next were the oysters. These were small but briny and potent. They tasted like the sea but not too fishy to the point of yuck. They were salty, creamy and dressed with a little bit of dill.

20140422_184858_LLS

20140422_192421_LLS

After, there were some passed salt cod croquettes with a horseradish sauce. These were really nicely fried, and the salt cod was tame and gentle. Really nice.

20140422_190150_LLS

The caramelized carrots and root veggies with burnt honey were really tasty, though if you weren’t careful they did stick to your teeth quite a bit. Make sure you slosh with some water…

20140422_184912_LLS

…Or some mixed drinks. The bartenders at Skal were mixing up some really nice shit. There was a gin-based, cucumber-infused drink with black pepper. That was great. Also a muddled berry drink, and a ginger, basil and vodka drink that was nicely balanced.

20140422_193929_LLS

20140422_192808_LLS

These little beauties were smoked mackerel and foie gras served in an onion cup that had been steamed in whey. It was smooth and creamy, almost mousse-like. This might have taken best of the night, though it was neck-and-neck with the next dish.

20140422_190217_LLS

That next round of food was the duck wings. Holy shit, football fans… These motherfuckers were amazing. Soft, juicy, tender, jammed with flavor and perfectly dressed with red seaweed, mussels and a squid ink type of sauce. I know yo’re thinking “that’s not a traditional wing,” to which I would say “shut the fuck up and try it, then decide.”

20140422_190014_LLS

20140422_200152_LLS

Last, there was a little raw beef app. Raw beef with clams, fermented ramps and sorrel. Delicious enough to satiate this carvivore’s never-ending desire for beef.

20140422_184941_LLS

That signaled the end of the meal. As we were digesting, Kenta from Tabelog announced some new plans for the site and told us about their launches in Chicago and California. Things are looking really great for their US venture. I hope it takes off!

20140422_201938_LLS

Then the humble chef of Skal came out to tell us about the food and the restaurant. I’d definitely eat here again. Especially for the wings, the mackerel and the oysters.

20140422_202326_LLS

But… I needed a little something extra, because deep down I’m still a fat guy, despite losing over 40lbs since January 1. So we went to nearby Bassanova with our friend from the party, Jay, who runs the Dishelin Guide website. Check out his page – pretty damn good idea for a food blog! Ramen is a great way to cap off any night. This particular variety was truffle wadashi tondaku ramen (pork broth).

20140422_210926_LLS

carnivore connoisseur