Mable’s Smokehouse

My buddy and I came here for a quick bite before sampling some beers at the Brooklyn brewery.

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I sparked up a platter of brisket, pulled pork, mac and cheese and pickled beets. This came to about $27.

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The pulled pork was definitely the winning meat between the two.

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The brisket was a bit dry.

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Actually, both meats were slightly dry, but they were also both packed with flavor. You can always put some BBQ sauce on this shit to beat back the dryness, or some of the jalapeño vinegar that is on each table in the restaurant:

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The mac and cheese is tossed in a nice creamy and tangy cheese sauce, but it lacks crunch or texture. No breadcrumbs or anything toasted on top. Bummer.

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The pickled beets had an interesting clove flavor to them, very seasonal Thanksgiving. They were good, nice texture.

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I even messed around and made this carb-free pulled pork and pickle sandwich with a brisket bun.

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More like a slider, I guess. My buddy put down a proper pulled pork sandwich and a side of mac:

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Over all I’d say this place was slightly better than I expected, which was not awesome but definitely hit the spot. I’d put it on par with Dinosaur BBQ, though it has fewer menu selections. It is NOT on the same level as Hometown or nearby Fette Sau.

MABLE’S SMOKEHOUSE
44 Berry St
Brooklyn, NY 11211

Bavette

The Bavette steak (France) is also known as flap steak (USA), vacio (Argentina) and sirloin tip (New England); it seems that different regions of the US and the world at large call it by different names. While the phrasing “flap steak” might sound revolting, I assure you that this cut is delicious when butchered and cooked properly. Anatomically close to the flank and skirt steaks, flap meat is technically found near the intersection of the bottom sirloin, short loin and flank parts of the animal, only it is more tender than both flank and skirt steaks due to being located on the inside portion of the diaphragm.

Here’s a video of it being butchered out:

It’s a slightly thicker cut than skirt or flank, which come from the plate and diaphragm areas nearby in the anatomy of the cow. The Bivette is more tender than both of them. It has less stringy, less chewy fat than skirt, as the striated muscle in Bivette cuts tend to have better quality marbling. It does have a direction or grain to the musculature, though, so cutting on the bias is the best technique.

Photo from First We Feast: http://firstwefeast.com/eat/alternative-beef-cuts-butcher-guide/

Similar in texture and taste to a hanger steak, the Bavette is best prepared with high, dry heat and served medium rare. I’ve tried this great, wallet-friendly cut at Quality Eats in Greenwich Village. Here’s a pic from that meal:

As you can see, it has a great crust on the outside with a nice pink medium rare center.

This was cooked perfectly, and I highly recommend heading down there to give it a try if you haven’t done so already.

Denver Cut

The Denver cut, or under blade steak (as opposed to the top blade or flatiron steak), is part of the chuck that is very tender and highly marbled. It’s also referred to as “zabuton” by people from space, in the future (aka Japan).

While not as tender as the teres major in the shoulder, this cut offers something unique in terms of texture.

Photo from First We Feast: http://firstwefeast.com/eat/alternative-beef-cuts-butcher-guide/

The intense spider web marbling is perfect for long, low heat, slow cooking techniques that allow for the fat to melt and render, which thereby tenderizes the remaining muscle flesh. On the other hand, the meat is tender enough that you can also quickly sear it with high, dry heat in a pan and slice on the bias once it hits medium rare. Perfect for sliced and plated steak dishes, or even fajitas.

I’ve tried this cut at The Pines in Brooklyn, where they sous vide the steak for many hours to render out all that flecked marbling. Once it tenderizes, they sear it hot and hard to get a good crust on the outside. Finally, they slice it up and shave some horseradish on top.

I highly recommend trying this cut of beef if you see it in the grocery store or on a restaurant menu. The good thing is that it typically costs much less than other, more common cuts that you might see.

Hell’s Chicken

NOTE: THIS PLACE IS CLOSED

My wife and I were recently invited here for a press meal.

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This place is located just above the new Hudson Yards construction area on the west side. It’s a prime spot for the soon-to-be-bustling area. In any case, Hell’s Chicken serves up some tasty Korean style fried chicken!

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The batter was nice and crispy, and one of the sauces, the soy ginger, was really delicious. Even the drum sticks were adequately battered and sauced, so that the ratio between meat and batter was in the proper proportion.

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We also tried the “spicy hell” sauce, which is tomato based and gluten free. It did not deliver the kind of heat that one might expect from such eloquent naming. I thought I’d be shitting molten lava afterward, but that won’t be the case (thankfully). In any event, don’t be afraid! A good, welcoming heat creeps up a few seconds after your taste buds get to work, and the end result is pretty addictive.

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That’s cashew powder sprinkled on top, by the way: a very interesting touch.

Not only does this place do fried chicken, but they also serve up some traditional Korean dishes as well. We tried three courses. This first bite was a shrimp and veggie roll wrapped in pickled daikon.

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It was nice and refreshing, with a hit of sweet pickled goodness from the daikon.

Then we sank our teeth into this kimchi pancake, made with eggs, flour and pickled cabbage. It was crispy but had a nice dense, substantive texture to it from the kimchi inside. This might have been my favorite dish of the night.

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Next up was this platter of bork belly and lightly dressed greens. The belly was sliced thick and grilled with simple spices and sesame seeds. We dipped the pork in spicy bean paste. Awesome. I could eat this every day.

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This came out with some spicy pickled kimchi items as well. Shishito peppers, bean sprouts and cabbage. All were pickled in-house.

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I should also mention that this joint offers a pretty good happy hour deal from 4pm to 7pm, with $5 beers, wine deals and discounted well drinks.

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But check out this trio sampler of infused soju: yuzu, pomegranate and blueberry. All were on the sweet side, as opposed to dry. The pomegranate was the best, and most naturally pleasant tasting of the three. I like the old style presentation too, with the small jars. This will run you $18, for what is essentially about 12-15oz of soju. I thought that was a good deal.

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To sum up, this is a great place to satisfy for your Korean fried chicken cravings. The traditional dishes are pretty great too. A guy who sat next to us ordered the bibimbap, and I must say it looked, smelled and even SOUNDED delicious when it came out in the hot clay bowl. That’ll be my next meal here.

HELL’S CHICKEN
641 10th Ave.
New York, NY 10036

Teres Major

The Teres Major is a seldom-used muscle located in the chuck shoulder of the animal that is said to be bested in tenderness only by the tenderloin or Filet Mignon.

It’s also known as the “shoulder tender,” “petite tender” or “bistro filet” in some circles, but it’s rare because it’s a challenge to extract as far as butchery is concerned. Luckily, these are starting to become more popular, so you can sometimes find them at steakhouses that are offering some lesser known and more budget friendly cuts.

It’s mentioned and shown in the beginning of this video here:

This shows that is even has some anatomical similarities to the filet, like a silver skin membrane.

It’s similar in size and shape to a pork tenderloin and eats similar in texture to beef tenderloin, but with the bold flavor of a hanger steak. They vary from 8-12oz. Here’s a shot of the cut from Charlie Palmer Steak in midtown.

You can also find one at Pig Bleecker, called The 155 Steak.

Brasserie 8.5

Brasserie 8.5 is part of the Patina group of restaurants. If you’re loyal to them, they’re loyal to you. What I mean by that is simply this: go to one of their restaurants, and at the end of the meal they provide you with a contact and comment card. When you supply them with an email address and date of birth, they send you a free $50 credit for your birthday, which can be used within two months of the date. My wife and I have been to many of their establishments, and we haven’t been disappointed yet. The $50 credit makes it all a bit sweeter too.

So we came here with the $50 credit this time because it was within two months of my wife’s birthday. But, to be honest, we’ve been meaning to come here for quite some time. This joint offers an amazing happy hour deal with $5 quality draft beers, $1 oysters, and a bunch of other fairly priced items. In addition to that, they have a regular $29 three-course price fix lunch, a regular $39 three-course price fix dinner, no corkage fees on Sundays and Mondays, and on Sundays they have an awesome $32 bottomless mimosa brunch buffet that takes over the whole lounge area. Amazing, and you are truly dining in elegance with impeccable service at this massive midtown restaurant. The bar area is really nice, too, and the cocktail menu has some very nice concoctions.

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So let’s get down to business. My wife did the price fix menu. Her appetizer was octopus with bean puree. The octopus was soft and tender, but it had a bit of skin slime going on. Perhaps a quick char on the grill would have knocked that back a bit before plating it on the bean puree.

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Her entree was branzino with kale and calamari. These were nicely cooked and the skin was crisp. However the fish taste was a bit stronger than we are usually accustomed to for branzino. Not bad in any way, just a bit more powerful than expected.

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Her dessert was a pear tart with vanilla ice cream. This was a beautiful dish, and the tart was perfectly executed.

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I started with this nice cylinder of tuna tartare. The tuna was fresh and the cucumbers were crisp. The dressing was minimal so as to allow the simplicity and quality of the tuna stand on its own.

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My entree was, as you might have expected, their dry-aged cote de boeuf, which was topped with sauteed mushrooms.

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This nice bone-in rib eye was cooked to perfection on the inside. An even medium rare through and through.

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I’m giving it 8/10 for flavor. I’d say it came in at about 20oz., if I had to guess. While the meat was perfectly cooked, there was a lot of bleed out due to the fact that the outside did not have a great deal of sear or char to it. That char tends to lock in all of the meat juices, that way, when you let it rest after cooking, none of the juices pour out of the meat. I wondered if it was cooked sous vide style… but the fact that the mushrooms were plated on top of the steak didn’t help much either, as that heat and moisture would work to remove any trace of searing that was done during the cooking process.

On the side I had an order of fries and sauteed spinach. The spinach was a bit watery, but it had a good buttery-garlic flavor.

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The fries were perfectly crisp, though a little light on the seasoning.

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I skipped dessert and shared some of my wife’s tart. All in, this was a pretty good meal. And we did well with that $50 birthday credit. Check out the William:

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BRASSERIE 8.5
9 W 57th St
New York, NY 10019

International Restaurant & Foodservice Show 2016

Last year’s show featured many of the same vendors and proprietors as this year, so I will focus more on some of the newer stuff, in addition to the products and items that I found to be personal favorites of the day. For some, I even wrote separate product reviews.

Okay so now it’s photo dump time. I haven’t edited ANY of these photos, so they might be dark on occasion. There were just too many to bother with that bullshit.

I will highlight certain items as I go, like these bottles of ready-made ramen broth by Kubara. They offered shio (salt), shoyu (soy) and yuzu shio (citrus salt) flavors. All were pretty good, but I liked the shoyu (soy sauce) the best. All broths are based in seafood and kelp, but I was blown away by the depth of flavor they had!

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Contrast this with Ariake, a concentrated ramen broth, bone stock and sauce vendor. Just add water to dilute and create the goods.

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The Chaat Co created these savory yogurt snack cups with puffed lentil toppings based on Indian street snack food. They were really nice, and no excess sugars.

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Parm Crisps are pretty self explanatory. Very tasty crackers made entirely from cheese and spice flavorings.

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Green Mustache veggie and fruit drinks.

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Peanut Punch by YourPanadas was like liquid, milky peanut butter. SO GOOD!

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There were some nice shochu vendors in the Japanese section. I liked Window’s un-aged mugiichi best.

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This sweet potato “Hebess Cool” was refreshing! Great for summer, or even to mix into a margarita.

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More Good was an excellent syrup flavor company for more natural sodas and fountain drinks:

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But this one, Cocktail & Sons, had some extremely interesting stuff for making cocktails. The herbs and spices used in the syrup making process were unique and flavorful.

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True Made Foods makes some awesome sauces and ketchup. I’m writing a separate review for these products, because I have more than one line to say here. The sauces are naturally sweetened by using other vegetables in the process. Brilliant.

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Uniquely Greek feta spreads are immensely flavorful.

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Superior Farms was here last year as well, but this lamb bacon was incredible. I wish I got a pic of the actual bacon.

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THREE LITTLE PIGS!!! I’ve seen this stuff in markets before, and always wanted to try. They make amazing mousses, pates, jams, mustards and other sorts of items in that vein.

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Imitation caviar?!??!?!? I wouldn’t be able to tell the difference. It tasted like fish eggs to me! But it is made using molecular gastronomy techniques.

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Brandt offered some excellent beef jerky. I’ll be writing a separate review for this as well, but the texture was tender, and the orange teriyaki was my favorite flavor.

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Look at this hunk of wagyu they had in their showcase…

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D’artagnan was set up again, this time carving up some delicious cured Mangalica ham:

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By the way, here’s a giant sack of pink Himalayan salt that I almost stepped on:

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Another highlight of this food show is the baking or pastry sculpting competition that goes on in the back. Check out these entries (I am guessing that the theme was magic):

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I think that about covers it. I have some product reviews to write up after all of this sampling. One company, Total Kitchen Safety, is sending me a chain mail, ring-mesh glove for use in butchering meats and slaughterhouses. It is armor for your hands so you don’t cut yourself. I’m really looking forward to getting my hands on that for a product review.

Trois Petits Cochons

THREE LITTLE PIGS!!! I’ve seen this stuff in markets before, and always wanted to try. I finally was able to at the 2016 International Restaurant & Foodservice Show. They make amazing mousses, pates, jams, mustards and other sorts of items in that vein.

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This goose mousse had hints of truffle, but was super velvety and smooth. I could eat that entire log!

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Brandt Beef Jerky

Brandt offers some excellent beef jerky. The texture is tender, and the orange teriyaki was my favorite of their flavors, with “Volcanic Jalapeno” coming in a close second.

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BBQ and volcanic:

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Orange and cracked pepper:

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As you can see, the orange is a bit more “wet” looking than the dry cracked pepper, BBQ and volcanic jalapeno.

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This is some of the better jerky in my repertoire. I definitely recommend it if you come across this stuff.

True Made Foods Sauces

True Made Foods makes some awesome sauces and ketchup. The sauces are naturally sweetened by using other vegetables in the process instead of added sugars. This brilliant idea was conceived by one of the co-founders who was attempting to hide healthy foods in her husband’s meals. He loved it so much that he launched the ketchup product with an entrepreneur friend.

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As you can see below in the next pic, each bottle contains spinach, squash and carrots in the mix. Not only does this add natural sweetness, but it also helps create a nice thick texture that eats with significant substance for a sauce.

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The ketchup is absolutely delicious, as a result. No longer is your ketchup merely a condiment for your hot dog or burger. It becomes a topping, just as important as your onions or cheese: That’s what I mean to convey when I say that it has substance to it.

The Veracha is a thick, chili paste type of sauce that’s reminiscent of sri-racha, only thicker and less salty. But the BBQ sauce is truly something to behold. This stuff is sweet, spicy, thick and has serious depth. It takes a lot for get me psyched about BBQ sauce. Most brands out there just don’t do anything for me. But after tasting this, my love of BBQ sauce was renewed.

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Here’s a shot of the nutritional info for your perusal.

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And here’s a shot of Abe (left) and Kevin (right) from the 2016 International Restaurant & Foodservice Show, where I was able to taste all of this delicious shit, and even bring some home.

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carnivore connoisseur